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外刊读写营第8期 公众号/B站：三言两语杂货社 Unit 3
The Creatives Fueling Tulum’s Food Renaissance
Tulum, long synonymous with boho-chic aesthetics and beach clubs packed with
the beautiful and well-to-do, has in recent years earned a less-than-flattering
reputation—a paradise turned touristy gimmick, its very real magic dimmed by
faux shamans and heinously overpriced plates of fruit. These things may or may
not be true, but they don’t stop throngs of visitors from flocking to the small
beachside city, and it’s for more than the idyllic views.
A new class of culinary artisans is reimagining what Tulum tastes like. It’s a cuisine
in flux, tending toward hyperlocal ingredients and convenience while
acknowledging the steady stream of expats (and palates) arriving from places like
Germany, Argentina, and Canada, among others. The best food in Tulum all depends
on who you ask: and there’s no shortage of opinions in this haven for those who
move to the beat of their own drum.
“I want to be known for the great food, and not just because it’s a beautiful or
trendy place,” says Jesu.s Ortiz Jimenez, executive chef at Motmot, a luxe hotel
restaurant and bar nestled in the La Veleta neighborhood. Motmot, however, can’t
help but be Instagram-friendly; the space seamlessly combines the raw, ornamental
beauty of the environment with richly embroidered seating and eye-catching
stoneware.
Chef Jesu.s’ approach is all about invention, centering traditional Mexican flavors
in the most playful, progressive way possible. First, a deconstructed Caesar salad
on toast with sweet onion and velvety anchovy dressing comes out of the kitchen.
It’s followed by an impossibly bright sea bass aguachile made with lacto-fermented
serrano cucumber water and basil oil. Old-school desserts like arroz con leche and
banana bread are upgraded with lemon ganache, edible gold leaf and cocoa ground
with black pepper by pastry chef Montserrat Torres.
“I’m inspired by my Mexican roots, of course,” shares Ortiz. “But it’s also a long
road full of learning. It’s very important to my whole team that we’re constantly外刊读写营第8期 公众号/B站：三言两语杂货社 Unit 3
evolving. Cooking is just like any other profession—you should always be looking
for new sources of inspiration and methods of transformation.”
While some restaurant patrons in Tulum want a taste of the unknown, there are
others who prefer a reminder of home. There’s a sizable Argentine community in
Tulum and nearby Playa del Carmen, and a host of sandwich shops and bakeries
have popped up to address the market. Guido Berdulari, owner of El Abasto,
explains that he “wants people to feel like they’re in a small deli shop in Buenos
Aires when they walk in.”
“The most important aspect is how you feel when you take a bite,” says Berdulari.
“If you’re from Argentina, it should be like you are tasting a memory. We take our
time to source the proper products to recreate that.” Berdulari has close connections
with a bakery in a neighboring town that delivers fresh bread every morning at
seven. There are mountains of croissants filled with pastry cream and achingly
good dulce de leche. Savory pies loaded with roasted vegetables and boiled eggs
line the display window, allowing customers to lust a while before placing their
order.
Community is Tulum’s greatest asset; for every interest, sport or zodiac sign, there
is a WhatsApp group and weekly meeting. And for soul food enthusiasts, a Highly
Catered event hosted by Glodie Bakajika is a requirement. Known as Chef Gee, she
hails from Toronto and settled in Mexico to create private dining experiences that
center infused dishes like shrimp and grits, baked mac and cheese, cinnamon rolls
and cheesecake. Bakajika routinely organizes yacht dinners, birthday soirees and
one of the best brunches in town.
“My first vacation to Tulum was in July 2020, and three days into the trip I decided
that this was home,” explains the chef. Gee was a flight attendant before the
pandemic, but found herself furloughed and uninspired prior to Highly Catered’s
inception. “The business went from a concept to a reality, then to the current dream
I’m living. Tulum is definitely a spiritual portal, and I feel an ancestral call to stay
here and step outside of the norm.”外刊读写营第8期 公众号/B站：三言两语杂货社 Unit 3
In a place often dismissed as a fleeting trend, the food scene proves that substance
still matters. And for every ripoff, there’s a revelatory bite waiting to be unveiled.
Whether it’s found in a deli, palm-flanked restaurant or private residence, there is
world-class food in Tulum. And that alone is worth the trip.
